11 March 2025

Design, Society, and Innovation: 'Powerful Patterns' at the MAK

A View on the Curator's Work: Powerful Patterns at the MAK

The MAK's latest exhibition, Powerful Patterns: Meisen Kimonos from the MAK Collection—A Friis Donation, brings an important textile tradition to the fore, shedding light on the interplay between Japanese and European modernity. Curated by Lara Steinhäußer, curator of the MAK Textiles and Carpets Collection, this exhibition is more than a display of exquisite fabrics; it is a layered exploration of design, society, and technological innovation. By examining the curatorial approach, we gain insight into the multiple dimensions that frame this unique collection.

The Meisen Kimono: A Fabric of Change

At the heart of the exhibition is the Meisen kimono, a distinctive garment from early 20th-century Japan. Unlike traditional silk kimonos, Meisen kimonos were made of mechanically processed raw silk, which made them more affordable and accessible to a broader audience. This innovation coincided with the rise of synthetic aniline dyes, allowing for vibrant, large-scale patterns that departed from older, more subdued styles.

Steinhäußer's curation highlights how these garments became a symbol of transformation. Worn primarily by Japan's "new women" of the Taisho (1912–1926) and early Showa (1926–1989) periods, Meisen kimonos reflected an evolving role for women in Japanese society—one that balanced modern aspirations with traditional aesthetics. The Taisho period, often seen as an era of liberalization and cultural flourishing, encouraged the adoption of modernist fashion among women striving for independence. The early Showa period continued this trajectory but soon saw rising militarism. However, the post-war period (from the 1950s onwards) experienced a second wave of Meisen kimono popularity, incorporating bold patterns influenced by global modernism, reflecting a renewed interest in cultural fusion and artistic experimentation.
By showcasing these textiles, the exhibition touches on broader themes of gender, fashion, and social mobility.

Cross-Cultural Influence: Wiener Werkstätte and Japonisme

One of the exhibition's key pillars is the cross-cultural exchange between Japan and Europe. Meisen designs were deeply influenced by movements such as Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and Expressionism, with some patterns even echoing the Wiener Werkstätte aesthetic. This reciprocal exchange was not one-sided: while Japan adopted European design principles, Europe had long been captivated by Japonisme, incorporating Japanese motifs into Western art and design. The MAK's exhibition demonstrates this dynamic dialogue, illustrating how cultural interactions shaped visual identities on both sides of the world.

The Technology of Material: Meisen and Its Innovations

The technological advancements in fabric production are another crucial focus. Unlike traditional hand-dyed silk kimonos, Meisen textiles were produced using a stencil-printing method that imitated Kasuri (Ikat) dyeing. This technique allowed for blurred, painterly motifs that were both artistic and efficiently mass-produced. The exhibition does well to highlight this innovation, showing how industrialization affected traditional craftsmanship and broadened the scope of textile design.

A Multi-Perspective Approach to Curating

Steinhäußer's curatorial vision is structured around multiple perspectives, presenting Meisen kimonos not just as artifacts of fashion but as touchpoints for understanding societal transformation, cross-cultural influences, and technological progress. This multi-layered approach allows visitors to appreciate the exhibition from various angles—whether they are interested in gender studies, textile technology, or global artistic movements.

Why This Exhibition Matters Today

Beyond its historical significance, Powerful Patterns offers a fresh perspective on the global modernist movement. The early 20th century was a period of rapid cultural exchange, much like today's interconnected world, where design influences transcend borders instantaneously. Understanding these past interactions helps us make sense of contemporary fashion, art, and cultural hybridity.

Visiting this exhibition is not just an opportunity to admire stunning textiles; it is an invitation to explore how global cultural movements continue to shape our modern aesthetic landscape. The exhibition opens today at 19:00 and will be on view until August 24, 2025.


Image: MAK Exhibition View, 2025. POWERFUL PATTERNS: Meisen Kimonos from the MAK Collection—A Friis Donation. Central Room MAK Design Lab. Photo: © MAK/Stella Riessland.