Casino tokens, the idea of 'mirroring' and the challenge to be a woman; seen at ep_anoui FW9/10
The Austrian designer Eva Poleschinski has presented the ep_anoui fall/winter 2009/10 collection 'Speculaire-Mirror' at the Ringstrassen Galerien Fashion Show on 22 April 2009 in Vienna. On occasion of the 6th Designer Award her label was selected with one of her designs to be a finalist in the competition to the theme ‘A Remix Of The Golden 20’s’.
Question: Your selected design for the Ringstrassen Galerien Award 2009 looks like a mix of different cultures and gender. The outfit with the transparent dress over the oriental harem pants shows details of the male tuxedo. Have you intended this impression? Please describe the outfit.
ep_anoui designer Eva Poleschinski: "It was very important for me to combine 'Glamour' (Josephine Baker) with a 'Classical Twist' (Marlene Dietrich) and create ONE Look. Classical Elements like the Bow Tie meets Show elements like a huge hat piece out of ostrich feathers.
The look from clear sequin trousers is composed in the pouffe trousers style (Orient-Poiret), top dress embroiders with leather circles and enamelled leather bearers it is brought by the sequined Belt coated with chiffon on 'detailed waist'. In addition a skin-tight golden leather jacket, bolero which appears like the second skin is carried."
Question: Have you developed your idea for the FW 9 10 collection ‘to visualise a woman in every condition of life’ in your outfit 'Golden 20ies'?
ep_anoui designer Eva Poleschinski: "The 20th was for the 'woman' and her position in the society an important time, woman might carry every now and then trousers more self-confidently in the appearance by the post-war period more luxuriant materials, accessories for courage to new accents as for example the detailed waist or also to the use of styles of the man's fashion (Marlene Dietrich)."
Question: The 20ies have been the great time of flapper girls and the emancipation of women. Can you see any similarities to the time of the 20ies? Do you think that women will be confronted with new situations?
ep_anoui designer Eva Poleschinski: "Woman was challenged to the last years / decades by the increased linking of family/job/everyday work …. to be also in the clothes "multitasking"; from the office fast home (if generally) by an evening appointment with business partners … … new challenges, also for the fashion …."
Question: The circles are the linking elements in this collection with the title 'Speculaire - Mirror'. They can be found even in the outfit 'Golden 20ies'. Do you think that the 'mirroring' of the economical situation in 2009 by art, design is more dynamic than in the 20ies and 30ies of the last century? Have you an imagination why? Please name the most important esthetical signs in fashion design which result from today’s financial crisis (material, cut, style...).
ep_anoui designer Eva Poleschinski: "I think that there is above all in the fashion to every crisis at every 'bad times' a sort of reaction; by fashion one can bring on the one hand very easily in a 'Phantasiewelt' or express own positions; as well as now in the 20th, post-war period, there also is a counter current embroider-exclusively materials, strong colours, cuts with big material volume parts with those one strike, feels exclusively drawn. In my collection the punched out leather circles also play an important role (inspiration from casino tokens) which are also used in the 20th look."
Question: What are your personal (fashion) must haves in spring/summer 2009?
ep_anoui designer Eva Poleschinski: "Fluent, draped dresses and flowers - see [ep_anoui] SS2009."
Question: In your press release for the FW9/10 collection you name art, film and poetry as your sources for inspiration. Do you have concrete titles which have influenced you most?
ep_anoui designer Eva Poleschinski: "When I begin a new collection I start with compiling information: I select an inspiration from the past collection and look at this from another point of view - this is how the search work begins; in case of the autumn/ winter 2009/10 collection it was 'Pierre-Louise Pierson' who has already taken 'influence' on my spring/summer 09. Other sources for inspiration were organic lamp designs of 'Piantana', the presentation of the casino tokens in the movie 'Casino', as well as the lyrics from the movie 'The Magician of Oz'
You’re out of the woods
You’re out of the dark
You’re out of the night
Step into the sun
Step into the light
Keep straight ahead for the most glorious place
On the face of the earth or the sky"
If you don't know the movie 'Casino' and can't imagine why especially the casino tokens of this film have inspired the designer Eva Poleschinski, check out the scene with Sharon Stone and Robert DeNiro youtube.com/watch?v=YGPYatJ12Wc.
About the designer
Eva Poleschinski (born 1984 in Graz, Austria) studied from 2004 until 07 at the international fashion school ESMOD in Munich and attended courses at the Central Saint Martin's College (London) and the FIT (New York). Alongside to her studies she has worked for Emanuel Ungaro, Abaete, Awareness and Consciousness, Thang de Hoo... In July 2008 Eva Poleschinski launched her label ep_anoui. https://www.fashion.at/design/2009/epanoui4-2009.htm
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